Toyota FJ Cruiser camper

(1 customer review)

The Toyota FJ Cruiser is well-rated for off-road driving and people like its distinctive looks and the rear doors that open towards the back. It also drew criticism for having significant blindspots due to its design, smaller-than-average load capacity, and rear seats that were cramped and difficult to access. Its boot is not very long and sleeping inside is doable (mostly for one person), if you don’t mind having your legs bent and can lie diagonally across the boot. Max possible length, with a DIY camping conversion and front seats pushed forward as much as possible is 188cm/76”.

Discontinued in 2014

NimbleCamper rating: 2.7/5
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Key information

Make

Body type

Boot door type

,

Boot length (cm)

142

Boot length (inches)

56

Boot height (cm)

98

Boot height (inches)

39

Boot width [wheel arches] (cm)

109

Available in

Comfort rating

Consumption l/100km

14.2

Consumption MPG (UK)

20

Consumption MPG (US)

17

Engine type

NimbleCamper rating (out of max 5)

  • Discontinued in 2014
  • Safety rating (higher = better) 6/10 and Good
  • the rear doors won’t open with the front doors closed
  • the boot door opens to the side (one single wing)

How to sleep in Toyota FJ Cruiser, DIY camping conversions

Toyota FJ Cruiser boot dimensions

Toyota FJ Cruiser ratings and reviews

Average rating: 4.3/5 = great!

Toyota FJ Cruiser Frequently Asked Questions

The FJ Cruiser is regarded as a reliable car across many forums. RepairPal gives it a 3.5/5 rating, actual users give it 4.8/5 and 4.7/5 (for different years) on Edmunds.com. It’s a rugged car made for the outdoors and built to last. The engine and gearboxes are rated as the most reliable part of the car. Toyota’s cars are also known for their reliability, which is no different for the FJ Cruiser.

People use the FJ Cruiser mostly for single-person camping and sleeping in despite its short boot – but you have to get a bit creative – lie down diagonally, slide the front passenger seat forward and lean it forward, then bridge the gap between this seat and the folded rear seat (or remove the front seat), or get a roof tent and sleep on the top (most common solution, especially for two people). The advantage of the FJ Cruiser comes from its off-road abilities, not from its boot space or atypical side door opening. Users usually get into the boot through the boot door (you need to fit a DIY indoor handle to open the door from the inside, see video below), because getting in from the side is very tight and you can’t open the rear side doors unless you also open the front door. This would mean that you have to open two doors each time.

If you are prepared to create a DIY sleeping platform, you could get up to 188cm/74” of boot length (see here) for sleeping – enough for two people (with not much gear). The trick is in pushing the front seats forward as much as possible, leaning the backrests forward too and building a platform to bridge the gap between the front and folded-down rear seats.

Here’s one happy camper that manages to sleep in a 2008 FJ Cruiser converted to a camper:

FJ Cruiser trunk storage solution

Useful links

FJ Cruiser forum

Roof tent image source – wicked4x4rentals.com

1 review for Toyota FJ Cruiser camper

  1. Lukas

    NimbleCamper rating: 2.7/5 – A short boot that can be extended to a good length only by a (not too difficult) DIY camping conversion, but a good boot height. A reliable car with style and very well-rated off the road.

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  • Average used price, GBP (2015) – I use Carsite.co.uk‘s price aggregates from 2015 (or the nearest possible year if not available), or, if not found, from autoscout24.com. For new cars, I specify the closest possible match (i.e. if released this year, it’s the new price, if released two years ago, it’s the 2-years old price etc). It’s here to give you a benchmark comparison (- a like for like, an apple with an apple) of the value of each car and for filtering purposes. It’s not meant to be used as an accurate estimate of used car value – it is updated once a year, so make sure you know what the car should cost at the time of purchase if you decide to buy one.
  • Boot dimensions – taken from various sources across the web, starting with official, supplemented with other reliable websites (like ridc.org.uk), supplemented by user-generated content – images of measurements from forums or social networks. It’s also used for filtering, comparison and to give you a good idea of the car’s suitability for camping.
  • Comfort rating – a benchmark used to simplify the car’s comfort & driving score based on equipment, furnishings, handling, safety, and costs ratings from external sources like whatcar.com, carwow.co.uk, autocar.co.uk etc. It gives you an indication of whether the car will drive and feel like a van (low rating) or offer better interior & handling (higher rating). A simple van-like car, for example, a Renault Kangoo is 0.5, a well equipped and comfortable car like a Ford S-Max is a 2. No hard math behind it, just an indicator, f.e. 0.5= basic car that does the job, 1.5 = hey, that’s nice to have!, 2 = oooh, comfyyyy.
  • Consumption – I take the average 2017 consumption or closest match from Fuelly.com, or if none is available, from other sources like honestjohn.co.uk. If there are not enough cars for a single year, an average for several years is calculated.
  • NimbleCamper rating – a weighted score of boot length (45% weight), boot height (40%), consumption (10%) and comfort (5%). The logic of weighing length & height higher than consumption and comfort is – headroom is important when you sleep in the back of the car, so is the length. A comfy ride is a factor, but you can sleep in a big car that’s not that comfy, however, it’s much harder to camp/sleep in a comfy car that’s too small. Read more about the NimbleCamper rating and criteria here.
    • a note for EVs (electric vehicles) – for consumption, I am using the Fuel Equivalent Consumption estimate by ev-database.org. It is usually much lower than combustion engines, giving EVs an advantage – which I think is fair. They do have a small disadvantage in terms of having to plan your trips around charging stations + longer waiting time, but that will get better over time. More charging stations, faster chargers and better batteries. Therefore I am not adjusting the calculation for EVs in any way.
    • In short: a litre of petrol contains about 8.9 kWh of energy. If we divide the energy consumption of an EV by this (f.e. 16 kWh/100 km divided by 8.9 kWh/litre), we get equivalent fuel consumption of 1.8 l/100 km.
  • EV stats – taken from ev-database.org
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